Beaver Valley

The community

Of

Beaver Valley

At the far eastern edge of Colorado’s central plains was a small settlement community called Beaver Valley.  To the east can be seen the sunflowers of the jayhawk state. 

When I first heard of this area, I was in anticipation of a place on the bluffs overlooking one of the many sand creeks that roll over the plains.   Instead I found a land of table flatness and one of the most tranquil peaceful spots on the open prairie. 

There are still a few farms in the area but what really stands out is the cemetery.  Eastern Colorado is not known for its trees, yet the folks of Beaver Valley planted a trove of pine trees.  The cemetery boundary is a line of pine trees.  Today they reach to the sky, providing a moment of solitude. 

The trees provide shelter for the local wildlife.  The day I was there, the birds were chattering a flitting about.  Gathering nesting materials, looking for food and chattering among themselves.  As I walked about, looking and taking pictures, the birds would let me know if I was to close to their tree.

The breezes whispered through the branches, singing the song of the plains.  All other sounds were mute and unheard.  I sat in my pickup and had lunch while listening to the various birds chirping.  It was one of those moments where the world was at peace. 

My gaze rolled over the scene, taking in the grandeur of the area.   Here was one of the most peaceful places for a final rest.  A view out a across an unbroken land with no end of the horizon. 

Empty Ranch

Ranch on the River

            Wandering along the dirt roads leads to adventure, hopefully.  Any this roaming trip took me to an unusual setting.  A ranch house that was sitting on the edge of the river.  Not up on the banks like most homes but down next to the river.  Today it doesn’t look like much of a river.  Much of the Republican River has dried up in Eastern Colorado.  Prior to 1900 the Republican was gushing little stream flowing over the plains.  With water wells, farming much of the water for springs has went other places.  The drought of a few years ago did not help, many of the springs dried up and have not came back.

            Years ago the river would flood from severe rainstorms and water would stretch across the valley in a raging torrent.  The flood of 1935 was probably one of the nastiest floods on the prairie.  In some places the river was three to four miles wide and 50-100 feet deep.  Washing away homes, animals and anything not real secure.  Looking at the river today it would be hard to imagine a torrent stretching across the way to the far hills side.  The flood waters were probably lapping at the edge of the little house on the river.

            The Republican was the highway for the early European explorers.  The Indians had been traveling along these routes for centuries, so when they guided the white man, they followed their known trails.  This area of Eastern Colorado was a part of the Louisiana Purchase.  Early 1600’s the French had established a trading post in Western Nebraska on the Republican River.  Along the river the French trappers could follow, trapping and trading with the locals. 

            The French Territory, butted up next to Spanish lands.   The Spainish would send out patrols to check on the French.  Traveling north out of New Mexico, the Spanish would use the Republican River route to journey to the French outpost in Nebraska.  What looks like barren void country today, centuries ago was a busy route on the plains.  As more explorers showed up, the river route became a busy thoroughfare across the empty land. 

            After the Louisiana Purchase, Lieutenant Zebulon Pike followed the Republican River across Kansas into present day Colorado.  Eventually this portion of the river would be the route the Leavenworth and Pikes Peak Stage lines would use.  The Stage line operated coaches in pairs with teams of four mules hauling the coaches across the country. 

            Along the river the stage line operated numerous stage stations the keep the mules fresh and the coaches moving westward.  If you could go back in time to 1859 you would of probably met Horace Greely on his westward sage ride through here.  They also operated freight trains along the river road.  50-100 wagons could be seen on occasion trekking along the wagon road.  They would be pulled with oxen, a draught of two yoke of ox and the bullwhacker.  Steadily the freight would move over the land, the bullwhacker silently walking beside his double yoke of ox.  There would be a small herd of extra oxen and men traveling along with the wagons.  Conjure up and image when the train would stop for camp. 

            With the advent of more railroads crossing the land, wagon roads like this became obsolete and are now but in memories.

Leader

Leader Colorado

Adams County is the community of Leader.  Being miles from any railroad, the store at Leader provided most everything for the settler.  The general store building still stands at the intersection of country roads.  It is a mixture of farmlands and pastures. 

Today there are maybe a half dozen homes in the area and the Leader Volunteer fire department, firehouse is next door. 

Yet this little corner store holds a hundred and one stories plus.  Early 1900’s, travel was by wagon and mule.  Average speed was about 4 miles per hour.  The limits of the settler to travel to the store on average, less than 12 miles.  For most it was 3-6miles. That means a trip to the store was around 3-6 hour journey.  Further then that would be an all day trip.

Here at the store, the settler would get his mail and or mail letters.   There would also, usually, be a blacksmith.  All the necessary stuff one could need was found at this little general store.

In the store there would be a clothing section, there would be boots and shoes.  There also would be the sewing section, so many wore homemade clothes.  There would be bolts of cloth, buttons, and patterns for shirts. Blouses, dresses, pants, thread, needles… etc.  In another corner would be a hardware section, nails, bolts, screws and other items, hinges, hasps and various tools.  At another counter, would be ammunition and guns.  It was for varmints, not many folks liked to have skunks or coyotes pay them a visit. 

Then there were the groceries, not like we see today.  It would be bags of staples, flour, sugar, coffee and supplies for canning or processing meat.  Most had a garden and canned their veggies.  Some would can their meat so canning jars and accessories were important. 

Flour sacks would be eyed for their pattern.  Would that color and pattern make a nice dress or blouse.  Selecting the flour bag was as important as the flour.  Home baked bread, rolls, or biscuits with a gravy was a staple.  Bags of beans would be purchased.  Various seasonings, salt was in a bag, pepper in a tin. 

The trip to the store was usually a monthly adventure and supplies would have to be bought to last for the month.  Many of the people in the area would have an account with the store and when their checks for their crops or livestock came in, bills were paid off. 

The general store was also news central.  The gossip would be plentiful when going into town.  They could also find out when the barn dances were, the funerals, the weddings and births. 

Way back then, it was a different way of life.  Many say it was hard, for them it was another day of life.  Here the folks from Europe had freedom from the tyranny of the royals.  They also had their own land, not the land of the kingdom. 

The little store building that still stands on the corner is a style I have seen for other stores out on the prairie.  It would be nice if some of these little store fronts would be saved.  One of the biggest things is to get them off the tax rolls.  That is the biggest reason so many of them are torn down, get out from under taxes.  There are special state funds for preservation of historic property.  People just have to be willing to jump through the hoops of the bureaucrats.